The quietness in this space is in no way an indication of a lack of cooking. The cooking I have been doing has been less calculated and getting back to the pure pleasure of tossing in this and that without pausing to grab the measuring cups. For months I detailed the intricacies of what hits our dinner table. I measured salt down to the grain for the purpose of writing another cookbook (coming out October 2!!) so it’s been a lovely reprieve to simply cook and eat.

The table at the shop has been full. I have found my favorite spot in this space. It’s behind the stove, tucked into the kitchen watching the full table pass around the platters of food and joyously clean their plates. I love hearing the dull roar soar to a raucous booming filling our little space.

These simple sprouts are a riff of a recent recipe I served here at the shop. The process of separating the leaves from the Brussels Sprouts may seem daunting and it can be but it’s the sort of task that is almost meditative. That is if you don’t have little children clamoring at your feet eager for dinner and saddened by the site of these little green vegetables. You could just as easily quarter them but there is nothing quite as divine as the crispy frilly leaves basted in a salty and sweet bath. In fact, I think my diners were fearful that I had burnt their lunch when this platter hit the table but after one bite and you taste the smokey char from a deep roast (*ahem* burn) in the oven they saw the intention behind my madness.

Equally delicious is this same sort of method on broccoli. You could also substitute the fish sauce for soy if you prefer.

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Frizzled Brussels Sprout Leaves with Chili and Maple

Author Ashley Rodriguez

Yield 4-6 Servings

Ingredients

1 pound brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons olive oil

Sea salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1 Calabrian chili, finely chopped (or 1/4 teaspoon chili flake)

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan

1/2 small lemon

Instructions

Preheat your oven to 425°F and line a sheet tray with parchment paper then set aside.

Trim the ends off the brussels sprouts then pull off the outer leaves. Trim more off the end to release more of the leaves. Once the sprouts get too small to pull off individual leaves quarter what remains.

Add the Brussels sprouts to the sheet pan then drizzle with the olive oil and add a couple of hefty pinches of sea salt. Roast for 25 minutes in the top third of the oven. Stir halfway through.

In a small bowl whisk together the fish sauce, maple syrup, and Calabrian chili.

Take the sprouts out of the oven. Then 5. pour the sauce all over, stir well to coat. Top with the Parmesan and again stir to evenly coat.

Turn the oven to broil then crisp up the leaves for 3 to 5 minutes. Watch this process closely and stir often but don’t be afraid of the char. This is where deep, roasty and bitter flavors come from.

Transfer the sprouts to a serving platter then finish with a squeeze of lemon. Serve while warm or at room temperature.

It’s really a shame that Brussels sprouts have had such a bad reputation. I regretfully admit that I myself have spent the majority of my life pulling up my nose in disgust at the mear mention of them.

I blame the steam bath my Brussels of the past received before ending up on my plate a soggy, flavorless, pile of bleh. Their little cabbage-like bodies rolled around the plate invading the territory of its more edible neighbors and I thought for sure they infected their sodden, yucky-ness onto whatever they had touched.

It wasn’t until Molly introduced me to cream braised Brussles sprouts that I could admit to myself that I did indeed liked Brussels sprouts. In fact because of that recipe I fell in love with them. Now I am kicking myself for those wasted years, making up for lost time and converting others to the Brussels sprouts-loving team.

Which is where this recipe comes in. As much as I adore these little, leafy green orbs bathed in cream I wanted a lighter recipe that would win over the fans. A recipe that would highlight the lightly bitter and sweet flavors that emerge after time spent in a hot oven. One that would show off the magic that happens when their outer leaves are given the opportunity to produce a slight char while their insides retain a pleasant creaminess.

A humble-looking platter of these very Brussels sprouts landed on the table of our Thanksgiving this year. Sitting around the table staring apprehensively  in the direction of this dish were the perfect candidates for Team Brussles recruitment – unsure of this leafy green yet eager to try as they had heard me, on numerous occasions, sing its praises.

The ending is a happy one. We now have a few more members to add to the team. If that’s not motivation enough to start pre-heating the oven then I leave you with the words of my 5 year old after his fourth helping of this very dish, “I love Brussels sprouts. They’re my favorite.” No truer words my boy, no truer words.

Brussels Sprouts with White Beans and Pecorino

adapted from November 2005 issue of Bon Appetit

This makes enough to serve four as a side. Or if you are like me, add a crusty loaf of bread to the mix and perhaps a glass of red wine and you have dinner. Feel free to add more salt if you feel it needs it, my Pecorino was delightfully salty and did the job splendidly. Also, it should be said that I go crazy with the cheese here, you may want less.

This dish comes together quickly, creates very little stress and packs a punch of flavor without being overly heavy. For these reasons and many more I think it is the perfect side dish for any holiday table.

1 lb Brussels sprouts, cut in half lengthwise

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon butter

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon chili flakes (more or less depending on desired heat)

½ cup chicken or vegetable stock

1 can cannellini beans

1 cup Pecorino, finely grated (or less if you feel so inclined)

Pre-heat oven to 400*F. Add the Brussels sprouts to a sheet tray and add the olive and salt. Stir them a round a bit to evenly coat.

Roast for 20-30 minutes until crispy and parts are deep golden in color. Remove from the oven and set aside.

In a large saute pan add the butter and saute the garlic over medium heat until lightly golden around the edges, 2-3 minutes. Add the chili flakes and stock. Stir in the beans and roasted Brussels sprouts and simmer until the stock has reduced to a glaze, about 5-7 minutes. Avoid stirring too much so as not to smash the beans and disrupt the sprouts.

Remove to a serving dish and liberally sprinkle with grated Pecorino.

Have you ever come up with an idea so genius that you know you’re pretty much guaranteed fame and fortune just for conceiving such a brilliant concept?

Well, the other day I came up with said idea.

I really do believe that the world will never be the same once this revelation is unveiled. I am pretty convinced that once I push the publish button on this very post the food network is going to be pounding down my door begging me to have my very own show. Those poor TV execs are going to be pushed aside by the dozens of publishers who will be throwing contracts in my face urging me to sign on to write volumes of cookbooks. Or at the very least you’ll read the following recipe and think “that looks delicious! I must make that right now and devour it in it’s entirety because of how fabulous that looks.” Which really is all I truly want.

Now I know that everything has been done under the sun so chances are this isn’t my idea at all. But I have never heard of it and while asking around have not met any one else who has heard of it either. So with out further ado this may or may not be an original idea but it’s new to me and I want to pass it on to you.

Are you ready? Are you sure?

I call it Yams Brulee (or sweet potato brulee, depending on what part of the country you are from).

The recipe could not be more simple.

Rub a yam with a hefty amount of softened butter and bake in a 350* oven until it is just about done. You should feel a touch of resistance when testing with a knife or fork.

Remove from the oven and cut in the middle lengthwise (hot dog style).

Sprinkle a touch of cinnamon on top of the yam. Add a pinch of salt then more butter to cover the exposed flesh. Continue to roast until completely tender.

Remove yams from the oven then let cool slightly. About 5-10 minutes. Sprinkle a fine layer of sugar over the top then TORCH IT until caramelized. Repeat with another fine layer of sugar.

There you have it. An incredible sweet/savory (and simple) side dish perfect for your holiday table.