I won’t take up too much of your time because at this point your turkey is probably defrosting and menu plans are well underway. But I didn’t want to let the holiday pass us by without sharing this recipe for a simple, bright and fresh slaw. While I am one to honor the traditional flavors and dishes that Thanksgiving brings I am always eager for a bit of health and heft on the table.

This slaw is just ever-so-slightly creamy with the addition of a bit of mayonnaise in the dressing. The cranberries pop and cause a bit of a pleasant pucker from their bath in a sweet and spiced brine. Green apple carries another hit of sweet tang while heaps of fresh dill and scallion nudge the salad back toward the savory. All of this to say it’s a delicious salad that will sit beautifully on our holiday table next to our smoked turkey with a bourbon and bacon gravy and fresh corn and cornbread stuffing.

I hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving brimming with gratitude and grace.

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Brussels Sprout and Green Apple Slaw with Pickled Cranberries

Author Ashley Rodriguez

Ingredients

Pickled Cranberries

1 cup apple cider vinegar

1/2 cup brown sugar

3/4 cup water

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ginger

4 cloves

Pinch salt

8 ounces cranberries ( about 2 cups)

Dressing

1/3 cup pickling liquid

3 tablespoons mayo

Salt

Salad

8 cups shredded Brussels (about 1 pound)

2 small green apples, diced or julienned

1 cup chopped dill

3 green onions, white and green parts thinly sliced

Instructions

Pickle the cranberries:

In a medium saucepan combine the vinegar, sugar, water, salt and spices and bring to a simmer. Add the cranberries then turn off the heat. Let cool. These can be made up to 3 days in advance. Cover and refrigerate.

Make the dressing:

In a small bowl whisk together the pickling brine with the mayonnaise. Add a pinch of salt. Taste and adjust to your liking. It should have a bit of bite to it.

Assemble the salad:

In a large bowl combine the brussels sprouts, green apple, dill, scallions, and dressing. Mix well to combine. Drain the remaining bring off the cranberries then add to the salad.

Serve straightaway.

The quietness in this space is in no way an indication of a lack of cooking. The cooking I have been doing has been less calculated and getting back to the pure pleasure of tossing in this and that without pausing to grab the measuring cups. For months I detailed the intricacies of what hits our dinner table. I measured salt down to the grain for the purpose of writing another cookbook (coming out October 2!!) so it’s been a lovely reprieve to simply cook and eat.

The table at the shop has been full. I have found my favorite spot in this space. It’s behind the stove, tucked into the kitchen watching the full table pass around the platters of food and joyously clean their plates. I love hearing the dull roar soar to a raucous booming filling our little space.

These simple sprouts are a riff of a recent recipe I served here at the shop. The process of separating the leaves from the Brussels Sprouts may seem daunting and it can be but it’s the sort of task that is almost meditative. That is if you don’t have little children clamoring at your feet eager for dinner and saddened by the site of these little green vegetables. You could just as easily quarter them but there is nothing quite as divine as the crispy frilly leaves basted in a salty and sweet bath. In fact, I think my diners were fearful that I had burnt their lunch when this platter hit the table but after one bite and you taste the smokey char from a deep roast (*ahem* burn) in the oven they saw the intention behind my madness.

Equally delicious is this same sort of method on broccoli. You could also substitute the fish sauce for soy if you prefer.

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Frizzled Brussels Sprout Leaves with Chili and Maple

Author Ashley Rodriguez

Yield 4-6 Servings

Ingredients

1 pound brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons olive oil

Sea salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1 Calabrian chili, finely chopped (or 1/4 teaspoon chili flake)

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan

1/2 small lemon

Instructions

Preheat your oven to 425°F and line a sheet tray with parchment paper then set aside.

Trim the ends off the brussels sprouts then pull off the outer leaves. Trim more off the end to release more of the leaves. Once the sprouts get too small to pull off individual leaves quarter what remains.

Add the Brussels sprouts to the sheet pan then drizzle with the olive oil and add a couple of hefty pinches of sea salt. Roast for 25 minutes in the top third of the oven. Stir halfway through.

In a small bowl whisk together the fish sauce, maple syrup, and Calabrian chili.

Take the sprouts out of the oven. Then 5. pour the sauce all over, stir well to coat. Top with the Parmesan and again stir to evenly coat.

Turn the oven to broil then crisp up the leaves for 3 to 5 minutes. Watch this process closely and stir often but don’t be afraid of the char. This is where deep, roasty and bitter flavors come from.

Transfer the sprouts to a serving platter then finish with a squeeze of lemon. Serve while warm or at room temperature.

It is easy to overlook the meager Brussels sprouts for the more traditionally appealing pumpkin pie or mashed potatoes. Those are not difficult to win over fans – wrapped in a flaky crust, layered with spice, whipped with butter and cream – it’s no wonder those dishes get the fame. But today I’m here as an advocate for the tender sprout.

Last year I attempted to woo sprout followers with a dish of charred Brussels sprouts made sweet by an extended stay in a hot oven. Combined with creamy white beans and sharp pecorino it was an easy sell.

This year I’m going raw which may prove a more difficult challenge. But, for me this salad is perfect for the traditionally hefty Thanksgiving meal. Sitting next to a mound of mashed potatoes with a near lake of gravy this bright salad softens its neighbor’s richness. And while taking up prime real estate on your holiday plate you may possibly feel more entitled to a slightly larger piece of pie.

But more important than that this salad stands alone as a great dish. I’ve taught it in a class, made it for friends, told many about its sour, slightly sweet and fresh taste and have had it for lunch and dinner on many occasions. (Never for breakfast but now that I think about it with a fried egg it would make for a mighty way to start the day).

Frilly tendrils of sprouts soften under a tart vinaigrette while pungent red onions and pecorino add richness and the marks the bite as a memorable one. If you feel so inclined a few walnuts tossed in or maybe even toasted breadcrumbs would be a nice addition. But in its simplicity there is greatness.

Brussels Sprout Salad with Red Onion and Pecorino

Adapted from Food52

A microplane makes the shaving of these little vegetables a quick and simple task but I realize many are fearful of the ridiculously sharp blade of those machines. If that’s the case a sharp knife does the job well. The red onions spend some time soaking in the vinaigrette, softening their pungency and giving them a quick pickle (thanks for this tip, Rachel). The vinaigrette can be made several days in advance and the red onions can bathe in the dressing for a day in advance leaving only the combining of a few ingredients to be done right before dinner.

1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
Juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon whole grain mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cups Brussels sprouts (use larger sprouts if possible)
1/2 cup finely grated pecorino romano
In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, honey, mustard and a pinch of salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil until the dressing is emulsified. Add the sliced onions and set aside.
Trim all of the brussels sprouts, cutting off any bruised outer leaves and slicing off a good portion of the hard root end. Using a mandoline, shave the sprouts one at a time. When you're done, use your fingers to gently separate the leaves so that the shredded sprouts resemble a very fine slaw.
Put the sprouts in a serving bowl and toss gently with the onions and the dressing. Fold in the pecorino, taste and adjust seasonings if necessary. Finish with a bit more pecorino on top then serve immediately.

It’s really a shame that Brussels sprouts have had such a bad reputation. I regretfully admit that I myself have spent the majority of my life pulling up my nose in disgust at the mear mention of them.

I blame the steam bath my Brussels of the past received before ending up on my plate a soggy, flavorless, pile of bleh. Their little cabbage-like bodies rolled around the plate invading the territory of its more edible neighbors and I thought for sure they infected their sodden, yucky-ness onto whatever they had touched.

It wasn’t until Molly introduced me to cream braised Brussles sprouts that I could admit to myself that I did indeed liked Brussels sprouts. In fact because of that recipe I fell in love with them. Now I am kicking myself for those wasted years, making up for lost time and converting others to the Brussels sprouts-loving team.

Which is where this recipe comes in. As much as I adore these little, leafy green orbs bathed in cream I wanted a lighter recipe that would win over the fans. A recipe that would highlight the lightly bitter and sweet flavors that emerge after time spent in a hot oven. One that would show off the magic that happens when their outer leaves are given the opportunity to produce a slight char while their insides retain a pleasant creaminess.

A humble-looking platter of these very Brussels sprouts landed on the table of our Thanksgiving this year. Sitting around the table staring apprehensively  in the direction of this dish were the perfect candidates for Team Brussles recruitment – unsure of this leafy green yet eager to try as they had heard me, on numerous occasions, sing its praises.

The ending is a happy one. We now have a few more members to add to the team. If that’s not motivation enough to start pre-heating the oven then I leave you with the words of my 5 year old after his fourth helping of this very dish, “I love Brussels sprouts. They’re my favorite.” No truer words my boy, no truer words.

Brussels Sprouts with White Beans and Pecorino

adapted from November 2005 issue of Bon Appetit

This makes enough to serve four as a side. Or if you are like me, add a crusty loaf of bread to the mix and perhaps a glass of red wine and you have dinner. Feel free to add more salt if you feel it needs it, my Pecorino was delightfully salty and did the job splendidly. Also, it should be said that I go crazy with the cheese here, you may want less.

This dish comes together quickly, creates very little stress and packs a punch of flavor without being overly heavy. For these reasons and many more I think it is the perfect side dish for any holiday table.

1 lb Brussels sprouts, cut in half lengthwise

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon butter

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon chili flakes (more or less depending on desired heat)

½ cup chicken or vegetable stock

1 can cannellini beans

1 cup Pecorino, finely grated (or less if you feel so inclined)

Pre-heat oven to 400*F. Add the Brussels sprouts to a sheet tray and add the olive and salt. Stir them a round a bit to evenly coat.

Roast for 20-30 minutes until crispy and parts are deep golden in color. Remove from the oven and set aside.

In a large saute pan add the butter and saute the garlic over medium heat until lightly golden around the edges, 2-3 minutes. Add the chili flakes and stock. Stir in the beans and roasted Brussels sprouts and simmer until the stock has reduced to a glaze, about 5-7 minutes. Avoid stirring too much so as not to smash the beans and disrupt the sprouts.

Remove to a serving dish and liberally sprinkle with grated Pecorino.